Front [Red] Sub-frame:

The following work has been done by Bill:

Fork is in place; StitesHub elements are all in place, including cogs; Eccentric Bottom Bracket in place, including spindle. Steering rod is in place, and will mate with the Rear Steering Rod Connector later in assembly.

Rear [Black] Sub-Frame

The following work has been done by Bill:

Spring Clamps + Springs attached. Lean Lock QR with Delrin washer and insert [if not attached, these may be in the small parts boxes]. Rear Sub-frame Disc brakes are in place, including all cables and housing. Handlebar Mount is in place. Rear Steering Rod Connector is in place, and will receive the Steering Rod later in assembly.

Note: All Nuts and Bolts are Stainless Steel to avoid corrosion.

Remove all items from the box.

Designate floor or counter space for the parts to be laid out in plain view. Try to lay out fresh paper or other clean surface - about 3 square meters was ample room for all parts before packing. Be careful to examine all packing material for parts [nothing was intentionally wrapped in newspaper].

PARTS LIST

Wheels [3]

[1] front wheel with Nexus-8 hub and all axle parts present, including chain tensioners, roller brake, shifter parts, and cap nuts. [2] rear wheels with quick-release [QR] skewers. All wheels have tubes and tires on.

Fenders [3]

Pre-assembled with stays and identified as to where they were originally mounted. Most bolts are on the respective dropouts, with some hardware in [2] Small Parts Boxes.

Seat [1] Seat base is separate, back tubular structure with mesh, and lumbar cushion with velcro attachment.

Cargo Tray [1] Includes side rails in place; with front support rails attached. Nesting the Right Handlebar.

Right Handlebar [1] Includes Adjustable Stem, hand grip with all elements in place [Nexus shifter with cable + brake lever with cable, foam grips, mirror]

Left Handlebar [1] Includes Adjustable Stem, hand grip with all elements in place [Button-lock brake lever with cable, foam grips, bell]

Handlebar Tube [1] Includes shims for attaching left and right Adjustable Stems.

Small Parts Boxes [2]

Chains [2]

Pre-made to 42 links for TOP chain and 45 for DOWN chain.

Articulations [2] Wrapped in orange paper, include Delrin bushings and bolts.

Crank Set [1], Pedals [1 pair], Brake rotors [2], Water bottle cage [1], Safety lights [2]

Miscellaneous hardware, including extra grease and zip-ties.

ASSEMBLY

Tools Required

Metric Hex head tools: 8mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm, 5/64 [included; used for cargo tray collars]

Torx head tool - included [for brake rotors]

Adjustable nut wrench, or a set of open ended wrenches.

Wire-cutters - for the plastic zip-ties.

Tape - masking tape that doesn't leave residue is recommended.

Ruler or tape measure.

These may not be used, but are handy to have:

Screwdrivers, Needle-nosed Pliers, Patience ;-) Remember to enjoy yourself!

This first step is the trickiest - Sub-frame Assembly. After that, it just gets easier! Note that the StitesHub elements are all pre-assembled on the Front Sub-frame. Also, the Handlebar Mounting is pre-assembled on the Rear sub-frame. Please recognise that it is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO CHECK for proper tightness of fasteners and general function of the parts. Always feel free to ask questions about anything you're not sure of. Most of all, have fun!

A] Assemble Front and Rear Sub-frames.

Locate the Front Sub-Frame [FSB] and the Rear Sub-Frame [RSB]. I would suggest removing just a minimum of the packing protection so that you maintain protection of the frames while working; but certainly remove anything that will make your task more difficult. Note that the powdercoat finish on the trike is pretty tough. It is very chip-resistant, though it will dent. Decals should be kept covered till the end of assembly.

As a general rule, bolt heads are on the right side of the vehicle.

3] Place the Front Sub-Frame [FSF] with its rear end in line with the front end of the Rear Sub-Frame [RSF]. It may be best to have some foam supports [or pillows] to help hold the RSF; probably best to work on the floor here [I'm assuming your working in your home - if you have or can get a bike stand, that would help - especially for your spine].

Also, double-check that the rear Delrin insert in the Sq. Seat Rail lightly touches the Lean Lock plate. If there is a gap, or the plate is being pushed back, loosen the top [2] bolts in FRONT Articulation and adjust by sliding the Seat Rail forward or back, accordingly.

### End of Sub-frame assembly ###

Fig. B-3

Fig. B-4

3] Apply the interior collar clamps (4) to the Front Support Rods [these may already be in place]. Add an o-ring [rubber] to each end and place the Front Support Rods into the holes in the bottom plate, near the front.

Note: Side rails are already in place.

Fig. B-5

Fig. B-6

Fig. B-7

Fig. C-1

2] Gently insert Handlebar Tube into the large holes on the either side of the Handlebar Mount. Move the tube gently to minimize scratching. Use a ruler to assure center placement.

Replace shim that was removed. Simply push on with seam downward, and leave flush at end.

Fig. C-2

Mount Left Handlebar

3] Release Left Handlebar [comprising left Adjustable Stem and Hand Grip], from packaging on Rear Top Tube. The rear brake cables are in place - be careful not to stress them too much.

Fig. C-3

4] Place Left Handlebar over left shim on Handlebar Tube, with Adjustable Stem directed vertically upward and outward, but with a slight forward lean. Check that the brake cable will route as desired [along the inside of the Stem - crossing at the junction of telescope-type adjustment - then down and across the back side of the Handlebar Tube]. Gradually tighten the [2] clamp bolts at the base of the Adjustable Stem upon the shim. Try to have the seam of the shim match the seam of the clamp [that is, open to the bottom].

Fig. C-4

Fig. C-5

Fig. C-6

Note: all adjustments, including zip-ties, can be changed later to suit your tastes.

Fig. C-7

Mount Right Handlebar

1] Locate Right Handlebar, including Nexus-8 Shifter and Brake lever, and mirror. It was packaged with the Cargo Tray.

2] Repeat step 4] above, but with the brake cable on the outside of the telescope adjustment; and the shifter cable on the inside.

3] Zip-tie the brake cable on the outside of the telescope adjustment; zip-tie the two housings together just after their initial bend [see photo]; and zip-tie the two housing midway along the right side of the Handlebar Tube.

Fig. C-8

4] Feed both long cables with their housings through the Handlebar Mount just to the left of the Stainless Steel center post; and below the Handlebar Tube.

5] Tape the loose cables out of the way for now.

Fig. C-9

1] If not done already, remove packaging materials to release the Steering Rod.

Since Steering Rod is already attached at its front end, we need only connect at the rear end to the Rear Steering Rod Connector.

Fig. D-1

2] Rotate the Fork to the right, and rotate the Handlebars to the left; then insert the Steering Rod into the Rear Steering Rod Connector as you rotate the Handlebars and Fork back toward center. Proceed until the Steering Rod is about flush with the rearward opening of the Rear Steering Rod Connector.

Fig. D-3

Fig. D-2

Fig. D-4

3] Visualize alignment of the Fork and Handlebars so that they are centered as accurately as you can.

Fig. D-5

Also, rotate the Steering Rod itself so that the front yoke is horizontal to the ground.

Fig. D-6

4] Being careful to maintain the alignments in step 3], use a 2.5mm hex head tool and lightly tighten all (3) set screws in the Rear Steering Rod Connector.

Fig. D-7

Fig. D-8

E] Install Rear Wheels

1] Locate Rear Wheels, disc brake rotors, and Torx bolts for rotors [wrench supplied].

2] Place the rotors on each wheel hub with the [6] Torx bolts supplied. Be sure the correct face is outward - an arrow on the rotor indicates direction of rotation. Note left wheel is opposite of normal [right wheel].

Gradually tighten the bolts as in the "Mechanic's Tip" above.

Fig. E-1

Fig. E-2

Fig. E-3

F] Install Front Wheel

Note: Many of the photos show elements in place that you haven't placed yet! The following photos show the chains in place - though you have not installed them yet. These instructions will gradually improve.

1] Locate the Front Wheel with all axle elements attached, including Roller Brake assembly on left side, and shifter parts on right side.

Note photo is a front view.

Fig. F-1

Fig. F-2

3] Place Front Wheel into the Front Dropouts, with the following order of parts:

left cap nut - left torque washer - left dropout - left chain tensioner -

HUB

- right dropout - right chain tensioner - right torque washer - right cap nut.

Fig. F-3

Fig. F-4

Thus, the Left Chain Tensioner ends up on the INSIDE of the left dropout; the Right Chain Tensioner ends up on the OUTSIDE of the left dropout.

The torque washers should be on the outside on both sides, just under the cap nuts.

Fig. F-5

4] With the Front Wheel in the highest location, gently tighten the cap screws to hold the wheel in place. NOTE: Be careful not to compress parts if they are not seated properly, particularly the torque washers with their protruding elements.

G] Connect Front Roller Brake

1] Feed the brake cable and housing [without the housing stop or lock-nut], through the left median tube of the Fork crown.

Note the right median tube will accommodate the shifter cable.

Fig. G-1

2] Locate the housing stop and cable lock-nut for the Roller Brake. These may be attached, or found in one of the Small Parts Boxes.

3] Place the housing stop over the cable and up to the end of the housing.

Fig. G-2

4] Slide the housing stop into the groove at the top of the Torque Plate.

Fig. G-3

5] Apply the cable lock-nut over the end of the cable. Snap the knob of the cable lock-nut into the brake arm [pushes in at the bottom of the slot and snaps as you go up]. Pull up lightly on the brake arm and tighten the lock-nut. There is ample room for adjustment at the housing stop, and up at the brake lever [do adjustments later when everything is in place].

Fig. G-4

Note: 6mm bolt to anchor Torque Plate to Anchor plate on fork should be left off or very loose, until after chain installation.

Fig. G-5

Fig. G-6

H] Connect Front Shifter Cable

1] Set shifter on hand-grip to "1". Pull on cable end [with shifter lock-nut attached], to let out cable as much as possible.

Fig. H-1

2] Guide the cable around the shifter plates on the axle, so that it loosely nests in the front, and wraps under toward the rear.

The cable should end up inboard of the yellow/red marks. DO NOT place the housing stop with rubber boot into the Receptor Ring yet.

Fig. H-2

Fig. H-3

Fig. H-4

5] Adjustment to be made later, but note that colored marks should align in 4th gear in the Nexus 7 hub; and likely still 4th gear for the Nexus 8.

Fig. H-5

I] Install Crank Arms and Pedals

1] Locate the crank arms. The crank arm with the chainring and guard will be mounted on the LEFT SIDE.

Locate the crank arm fixing bolts, in the Small Parts Boxes.

Fig. I-2

Fig. I-1

2] Loosen the 5mm internal bolt of the Eccentric Bottom Bracket [BB] with a 4mm hex head tool. You will need to KEEP ON TURNING counterclockwise until you meet some resistance at the end [may be 10 - 15 turns]. Go another 1/2 turn before reversing, and now turn clockwise a few turns till the bolt feels very loose again. Check to see if the Eccentric BB has become movable within the steel shell of the frame.

Getting the Eccentric BB to loosen can sometimes be tricky. There are aluminum wedges inside that expand against the shell to hold the Eccentric BB in place. Be patient here, don't start hammering! Repeat step 2] as needed, and if necessary, you can use a soft stick [piece of wood or plastic] to tap on the ends of the BB Spindle. Once released, the Eccentric BB will slide easily within the shell.

Fig. I-3

3] Place the LEFT crank arm with chainring and guard onto the left square spindle. Affix using one of the crank arm fixing bolts. Place the RIGHT crank arm on the right square spindle using the other crank arm fixing bolt. Tighten these bolts fully [not with all of your mighty strength - just very firm]. Note: a special tool is required for removing crank arms, since they get locked onto the square taper. See your local bike shop if you need to remove crank arms.

4] Leave the Eccentric BB loose until Top Chain is installed.

Fig. I-4

Fig. I-5

J] Install Top Chain

1] Locate Top Chain [with Chain Tubes attached]; and Down Chain. These were packed in the Small Parts Boxes.

2] Place Top Chain onto Chainring with the Upper Chain Tube to the right, and the Lower Chain Tube to the left.

3] With the Eccentric BB in the loosest position [spindle most rearward]. Hold the Upper Chain Tube* while placing the Top chain on the Left StitesHub cog.

* - chain tubes not shown.

Fig. J-2

Fig. J-1

4] Rotate the Eccentric BB to increase the tension on the chain. Here's a tip: slide the Eccentric to the right about 2 cm out of the shell so you can grab it with your hand to rotate it. Once you've achieved the desired tension, slide it back in and tighten the 5mm bolt of the Eccentric BB [firmly but not too tight].

Fig. J-4

Fig. J-3

Fig. J-5

K] Install Down Chain

1] Locate Down Chain. It is pre-assembled into a loop with 45 links.

2] Hold chain near its top so that it hangs in a large loop. Move loop toward the right side of the front wheel so the bottom of the chain passes under the end of the dropout and pull the chain up and onto the underside of the 18T wheel cog.

Fig. K-1

3] Then, place the top of the Down Chain over the Right StitesHub cog.

Fig. K-2

4] Loosen the axle nuts of the Front Wheel so that the axle can be moved downward to tension the chain.

5] Tighten the nuts on the bottom of the chain tensioners so the axle is gradually pulled downward. Be sure to go back and forth between left and right sides - rotating 2-3 half turns each side - until the desired chain tension is achieved.

Remember ... AN OVERTIGHT CHAIN WILL CREATE A SURPRISING AMOUNT OF RESISTANCE.

Fig. K-3

Note that the nuts on the chain tensioners should be in equal locations so that the front wheel is properly aligned.

6] Tighten the axle nuts firmly - again, be sure that all axle elements are seated properly - especially the torque washers.

Fig. K-4

7] Attach the 6mm bolt for securing the Torque Arm of the Roller Brake to the Fork. Note the slot to allow for variable wheel heights.

Fig. K-5

Depending on the final location of the wheel, there may be some space between the Torque Arm and the Brake Anchor plate that is part of the fork blade. Use a washer or two to fill in this space as the 6mm bolt is applied. When the bolt is tightened, it should not bend the Anchor Plate [a small amount of movement of the Torque Arm is OK].

Fig. K-6

L] Install Lean Restraint Springs

1] Release the Springs from the packing material surrounding the Front Bottom Tube.

NOTE: These photos show the Double Tab as forward of the Single Tab - they are actually reversed with the Double Tab toward the rear.

Only the sideview photo [Fig. L-1] of #CH005 shows the proper locations.

Fig. L-1

2] Lean the trike to the right, as far as it will go until the frames touch, nearly 45 degrees. Take care that the trike doesn't fall over in this position.

3] Attach the left-front Spring to the hole in the [left-front] Single Tab on the inside of the Rear "U" Tube. You may want to use a needle-nosed pliers.

Fig. L-2

4] Lean the trike all the way to the left, and attach the right-front Spring to the [right-front] Single Tab on the inside of the Rear "U" Tube.

5] With the trike still leaning to the right, attach the right-rear Spring to the forward hole in the right Double Tab.

Note that the second hole [rearward] in the Double Tab will be used for the Cargo Tray Supports.

Fig. L-3

6] Lean the trike all the way to the left, and attach the left-rear Spring to the forward hole in the left Double Tab.

M] Install Fenders

1] Locate all [3] fenders. These were labeled as to where they were originally installed. Note that the stay bolts are already on the frame eyelets.

2] Place Front Fender over front wheel and attach via the 5mm bolt and washers to the fork crown. Leave loose.

Fig. M-1

3] Attach stays to the eyelets near the front axle with the 5mm button-head bolts provided. These bolts require a 3mm hex head tool.

Fig. M-2

Fig. M-3

Fig. M-4

Fig. M-5

N] Install Seat Assembly

1] Locate seat parts, including Seat Back with mesh fabric, Seat Back Support, and Seat Base.

Fig. N-1

Fig. N-2

2] Connect the Seat Base to the Seat Back via the 'cylinder bolt' in place at the back of the Seat Base.

Fig. N-3

Use a 5mm hex head tool. Tighten fully [easiest with two 5mm tools].

Fig. N-4

3] Remove [2] quick release clamps from Seat Base, and place Seat Base onto stainless steel square Seat Rail of the trike.

Fig. N-5

Fig. N-6

Fig. N-7

5] Remove 6mm bolt from bottom of Seat Back Supports. Align bottom of Seat back Supports with rear hole in square Seat Rail [just in front of rear articulation].

Fig. N-8

6] Replace 6mm bolt with several washers on each side of the Seat Rail as spacers. A Nylock nut is supplied to maintain proper tightness [allowing pivoting motion]; do not overtighten.

Fig. N-9

Note that there is a second hole available in the Seat Rail for when the seat is adjusted very far forward. Use the rear hole whenever possible as it IS IMPORTANT THAT THERE IS AT LEAST 5cm BETWEEN THE BACK OF THE SEAT BASE AND THE BOTTOM OF THE SEAT BACK SUPPORTS.

The filler bolt should be left in, to keep water out of the frame.

Fig. N-10

7] Adjust angle of Seat Back by loosening the [4] black plastic knobs on the Seat Back Supports; re-tighten by hand only.

Fig. N-11

O] Brake Adjustment

Front Roller Brake

There are two locations for adjusting the front roller brake: at the housing stop in the Torque Arm, and at the housing stop on the Brake Lever. Rotating these stops will move the housing to tighten or loosen the cable.

Fig. O-1

Fig. O-2

Fig. O-3

Rear Disc Brakes

Since the brakes were set up and left on the frame, they should be close to proper adjustment. However, some fine-tuning will likely be required. The red plastic discs on each side of the brakes adjust pad location: rotating clockwise causes the pad on that side to move closer to the rotor.

Fig. O-4

If the overall placement of the brake on the mounting plate needs adjusting, please see the following webpage:

Fig. O-5

http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/avid/discbrakes/bbdb-mtn-160-install.pdf

for detailed Avid Mountain Ball Bearing Disc Brake instructions.

It is a little tricky to get the left and right brakes perfectly balanced. Such adjustment is done at the cable doubler [located under the Rear Top Tube], where the single cable from the brake lever interfaces with the two cables to the respective rear brakes.

The adjustments at the cable doubler are relatively fine and must be made in conjunction with adjustments at the brakes themselves [see above website].

Fig. O-6

Note that all [3] cable housings enter a barrel bolt with a lock nut. The pointer is touching the lock nut on the left rear barrel bolt, which receives the cable from the left rear disc brake.

Loosen all of the lock nuts [with standard counter-clockwise rotation], in order to move them away from the black casing. This allows free adjustment of the barrel bolts.

Fig. O-7

Barrel Bolts

Adjust the tension on the cables by adjusting the barrel bolts: CLOCKWISE rotation moves the bolts further into the black casing and LOOSENS the associated brake cable.

COUNTER-CLOCKWISE rotation moves the bolts outward and TIGHTENS the associated cable.

Fig. O-8

Fig. O-9

Note that the movable rectangular block [that pinches all 3 cables] should remain square to the entering cables, and not end up at an angle in the final adjustments.

IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE BLOCK DOES NOT HIT THE ENDS OF THE BARREL BOLTS AT ANY TIME DURING NORMAL OPERATION.

When all adjustments have been finalized, the lock nuts must be tightened down against the black casing for each of the [3] barrel bolts.

P] Shifter Adjustment

There are two locations for adjusting the Nexus-8 shifter: at the housing stop on the shift lever, and at the adjusting barrel located on the shifter cable at the end of the segmented housing near the handlebars. Rotating the stop or the adjusting barrel will move the housing to tighten or loosen the cable.

Fig. P-1

Fig. P-2

There are red marks on the shifter parts at the axle. Note that one is stationery and the other moves with the shifting action. These marks should align when in 4th gear [possibly 5th, I'm not totally sure].

Fig. P-3

Fig. P-4